Springs in a box? Dropped by the weekend.

Lowering springs go onto your stock struts, which means the struts come apart, which is exactly why shops quote silly numbers for this. I do it at your driveway for one flat price, documented, with the free re-torque a week later.

One flat number before any work starts, and it does not move after. Prefer to talk? Call or text 647-450-0406. I read texts between jobs.

Stock struts, new springs

Get your flat install price

Takes 30 seconds. Paste the product link if you have it, that is what makes the number exact. The next screen shows real windows you can book yourself.

No spam and no sales call, just a real number. Or call 647-450-0406.

The number, up front.

$450–$700flat install labour 3 to 4.5 hoursat your driveway Same dayyour exact number, from the link
Text me the part link: 647-450-0406

You supply the part. The flat number for your exact car is agreed before any work starts, and it does not move after. Rust reality on older cars is inside the number, not a surprise at the end.

Why springs cost more to install than coilovers.

Here is the thing nobody tells you at checkout: lowering springs are the cheaper part but the bigger install. Coilovers arrive assembled, springs do not. Your struts have to come out of the car and come apart, the factory springs compressed and released safely, your new springs seated in their perches correctly, and the whole assembly rebuilt with the top mounts and bearings oriented right before it all goes back in. Done sloppily, this is the install behind every clunking, prematurely-dead strut thread on every forum.

Done properly it is a lovely result: factory ride quality DNA with the stance and the sharper turn-in you bought the springs for. Proper is the whole game. Spring perches indexed, bump stops trimmed only if the spring maker says so, top mount hardware torqued with the suspension loaded so the bushings are not born twisted, and every value written down in your build record.

Same honesty as every suspension job I do: the quote includes a stated Ontario rust buffer, I set your toe straight enough to drive calmly, you book a real alignment within the week, and I come back in a week to re-torque everything for free. If your struts turn out to be tired when they come apart, worn mounts, a leaking cartridge, I show you rather than tell you, and you decide with the parts in your hands.

What the price includes.

  • Fitment check on your exact springs before you book
  • Struts out, safely disassembled, springs swapped, correctly rebuilt
  • Top mounts and bearings inspected while everything is apart, shown to you honestly
  • Every fastener torqued to factory spec, logged in your build record
  • Rough toe set, plus the book-your-alignment talk
  • Free re-torque visit one week later

The honest part.

Springs on tired struts is a real conversation.

Lowering springs work your dampers harder. On struts with 150,000 km, the honest options are: springs now knowing the struts are on borrowed time, or springs with new dampers in one visit for one combined labour price, which is meaningfully cheaper than two separate jobs. I will give you the real read once I see the car, and the choice stays yours.

The alignment is not optional.

A drop changes toe and camber, period. I set the toe to drive calmly and you book a four-wheel alignment within the week. Anyone who waves this off is volunteering your tires as the evidence.

Cut springs are not a thing I do.

Someone always asks. Cutting coils is how you get a harsh, unpredictable car and a spring that can exit its perch. If the budget only covers cut springs, the honest advice is to save another month, and I would rather tell you that than take the job.

Questions people actually ask.

  • How much does a spring install cost?

    Flat, $450 to $700 for most cars, exact number the same day you send your springs and your car. It prices above a coilover install because your struts come apart and get rebuilt, which is real extra labour. If you have not bought yet and you are torn between springs and coilovers, message me first, the honest comparison depends on your car and your goal.

  • Springs or coilovers, honestly?

    Springs: cheaper part, factory-adjacent ride, one fixed drop, and your stock dampers work harder. Coilovers: adjustable height, matched dampers, a cleaner install, more money upfront. For a mild drop on a healthy newer car, springs are great. For a bigger drop, a high-kilometre car, or anyone who will fiddle with height, coilovers win. Tell me the car and the goal and I will give you a straight answer, including the boring one if that is the truth.

  • Will you reuse my bump stops and mounts?

    If they are healthy, yes, and I inspect them while the strut is apart, which is the only good time. Worn mounts or bearings on a high-kilometre car are worth replacing while everything is open, parts are cheap, the labour is already happening. I show you the actual parts and you decide, no mystery, no pressure.

  • Is this safe to do outside a shop?

    With the right spring compressor and discipline, completely, it is the same job shops do, minus the waiting room. Compressed springs demand respect and get it. This is also me telling you why the DIY version with rental compressors on jack stands is the one suspension job I genuinely advise against learning on.

Part in a box? Send the link.

One flat number the same day, installed at your driveway across Mississauga, Oakville, Milton, Brampton and Etobicoke.

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