Hitch in a 40-pound box? Torqued on by the weekend.

Bike racks, cargo carriers, utility trailers: whatever the plan, the hitch goes on at your driveway with every bolt torqued to the spec sheet and the wiring fused and tested. The chain stores book weeks out. Your driveway does not.

One flat number before any work starts, and it does not move after. Prefer to talk? Call or text 647-450-0406. I read texts between jobs.

Torqued to the spec sheet

Get your flat install price

Takes 30 seconds. Paste the product link if you have it, that is what makes the number exact. The next screen shows real windows you can book yourself.

No spam and no sales call, just a real number. Or call 647-450-0406.

The number, up front.

$180–$320flat install labour 1.5 to 2.5 hoursat your driveway Same dayyour exact number, from the link
Text me the part link: 647-450-0406

You supply the part. The flat number for your exact car is agreed before any work starts, and it does not move after. Rust reality on older cars is inside the number, not a surprise at the end.

The most useful mod a family vehicle ever gets.

A hitch is the rare mod that everyone in the household approves of: suddenly the bikes ride behind the car instead of inside it, the dump run stops being a Tetris championship, and the little utility trailer opens up half of Marketplace. It is also the install where I get to say the quiet part about this whole page: this is not just for truck guys. Most of the hitches I install go on CR-Vs, RAV4s, minivans and crossovers whose owners just want the bike rack to work.

The install itself rewards care over cleverness. Hitches mount to your frame or subframe at engineered points, and the entire job is: fit it square, start all hardware before final tightening, then torque every bolt to the manufacturer's printed spec with a torque wrench. That last sentence sounds obvious and is skipped constantly, which is why hitch-check threads exist. Mine get the spec sheet and the clicking wrench, and the values go in your record.

Wiring is its own honest job: 4-pin for trailers with lights, 7-pin where brakes and charging enter the picture. Most modern vehicles take a plug-in T-connector harness with no cut wires; where a converter is needed it gets fused properly. Either way it is tested with a real tester before I leave, because discovering dead trailer lights at the boat launch is a specific kind of misery I can delete for a hundred-something dollars.

What the price includes.

  • The right-class-receiver conversation before you order, free
  • Hitch mounted square at the engineered points, exhaust or spare lowered as needed
  • Every bolt torqued to the manufacturer spec sheet, values logged
  • Wiring installed fused and clean, plug-in harness where your vehicle takes one
  • All lighting functions verified with a tester, not a guess
  • The install logged in your service record

The honest part.

Buy the class your life actually needs.

A Class 3 receiver on a compact SUV that will only ever carry two bikes is money and ground clearance spent on nothing. Tell me the vehicle and the real use, bikes, cargo box, small trailer, and I will tell you the honest class and tongue-weight math before you order.

Rust prep is part of a hitch install here.

Hitch hardware lives in the salt spray zone. Mounting points get cleaned up, hardware goes in with anti-seize where the spec allows, so the hitch that goes on this year can come off in five if it ever needs to.

Towing capacity is the vehicle's number, not the hitch's.

A Class 3 hitch does not make your crossover tow like a truck; your owner's manual holds the real ceiling. I will tell you both numbers plainly, because the person who sells you the hitch rarely mentions the smaller one.

Questions people actually ask.

  • How much does a hitch install cost?

    The hitch install runs $180 to $320 flat, and trailer wiring adds $100 to $180 when you need it. Exact number when you send the vehicle and the hitch you bought or plan to buy. Booked together, hitch and wiring share setup time, which is the efficient way and the way most people do it.

  • Do I need wiring if I only carry a bike rack?

    No, and this is exactly why I price them separately instead of bundling like the chains do. A bike rack or cargo carrier needs no electrical at all. The moment anything with lights rolls behind you, a trailer of any kind, wiring becomes legally required, and adding it later is a normal visit.

  • Will a hitch fit my car?

    Almost certainly: hitch makers build vehicle-specific kits for nearly everything on the road, including cars you would not expect. Send me the year, make and model and I will confirm the exact kit, the class that suits your use, and anything quirky about your install, some vehicles need the exhaust dropped an inch or a bumper trim, before you order.

  • Can you install a hitch on a leased vehicle?

    Mechanically it is the same job, and most lease agreements treat a properly installed hitch as acceptable, some even as an accessory that stays. The honest answer is: check your lease terms, and know that removal at lease-end is a normal job too. The no-drill vehicle-specific kits make the whole question easy on most modern vehicles.

Part in a box? Send the link.

One flat number the same day, installed at your driveway across Mississauga, Oakville, Milton, Brampton and Etobicoke.

Get My Install Price