Hardwired at your driveway with zero visible cable: fused at the box, parking mode configured, battery protected by a proper cutoff. An hour for the front, a bit more for front and rear.
One flat number before any work starts, and it does not move after. Prefer to talk? Call or text 647-450-0406. I read texts between jobs.
Takes 30 seconds. Paste the product link if you have it, that is what makes the number exact. The next screen shows real windows you can book yourself.
You supply the part. The flat number for your exact car is agreed before any work starts, and it does not move after. Rust reality on older cars is inside the number, not a surprise at the end.
A dashcam is the one purchase on this entire site that pays for itself in a single bad afternoon. One disputed claim, one brake-check artist, one parking lot mystery dent with a licence plate in frame, and the camera has covered itself ten times over. Insurance companies love footage because footage ends arguments. That is precisely why the camera should not be dangling from a sagging suction cup with a cord across your dash.
Hardwired properly means: power from an add-a-fuse on the correct circuit at the fuse box, a hardwire kit with a real voltage cutoff so parking mode can guard your car all night without ever flattening the battery, and the cable routed under the headliner, down the pillar and behind trim so the only visible thing in your car is the camera itself, tucked behind the mirror. Front and rear doubles the wire-hiding work, through grommets and panels, and comes out just as invisible.
Before I leave, the boring details get done: time stamped correctly, parking mode actually enabled and tested, sensitivity set so it is not filming raccoons all night, and you shown how to pull a clip in thirty seconds, because footage you cannot find is footage you do not have.
Most cams sell the hardwire kit separately, and the right kit for your cam matters for the parking-mode cutoff. Send me your camera model before install day and I will tell you exactly which kit to add to the cart so everything arrives together.
It sips from your battery behind a voltage cutoff, so a healthy battery shrugs it off. A battery already on its last winter will announce itself, and if I see that during the install, I will tell you straight rather than let the camera take the blame.
Rideshare, delivery, trades: a dual camera protecting your rating and your record is not an accessory, it is working equipment that pays for itself the first time someone invents a story. I install a lot of them, and it shows in how fast the trim goes back together.
Front camera hardwired: flat $100 to $160. Front and rear: $160 to $260, the difference is entirely the hidden wire run to the back of the car. Exact number when you tell me the camera and the car. Add a second car the same visit and the trip charge logic works in your favour, worth asking.
Hardwired through a proper kit with a voltage cutoff, no. The cutoff watches your battery and shuts the camera down long before starting is at risk, which is the entire reason hardwiring beats the cigarette-lighter cable. The drain stories come from cheap direct-wired installs with no cutoff, which is the version I refuse to do.
Tell me your budget and whether you park on the street, and I will give you current, specific picks rather than a brand essay. The rule of thumb: a known brand, capacitor-based for our winters, a real parking mode, and buy the endurance-rated memory card, which is the component everyone cheaps out on and then blames the camera.
That is the standard, not the upgrade: camera behind the mirror, zero visible cable anywhere, trim back on without a single new rattle. If your windshield has a factory camera housing or heavy tint band we work around it, and I will place the cam where it records cleanly and legally without eating your view of the road.
One flat number the same day, installed at your driveway across Mississauga, Oakville, Milton, Brampton and Etobicoke.
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