Stuck in your driveway, a parking lot, or the side of the road? I come to you — 24/7. No tow needed.
Your car won't start and you're stuck. The worst time to need a mechanic is when your car can't move. I come to wherever you are — home, work, parking lot, roadside — diagnose the actual cause, and fix it on the spot.
This is the service that makes mobile repair make the most sense. A tow alone costs $150–250+. I come to you, often for less than that, and actually fix the problem.
Tested, jumped, or replaced on-site. I carry common battery sizes and can source your specific group size same-day. BMW owners: your battery needs to be registered to the ECU after replacement — I handle that too.
$120–$300Clicking once or not cranking at all? That's the starter. Honda starters give a distinctive single heavy click when they fail. Replaced wherever you're parked.
$250–$600Battery keeps going dead? Lights dimming while running? The alternator isn't charging. Tested properly before replacement — not every alternator that looks bad actually is.
$300–$600Engine cranks strong but won't fire? No fuel pressure. I test it before condemning the pump. Ford Focus ignition and fuel system issues are common — I know the diagnostic tree.
$400–$800GM Passlock and PassKey issues are notorious — the car cranks but won't start and you get a security light. I know these systems. Failed ignition switches, worn key cylinders — diagnosed and repaired.
$150–$500Battery dies overnight or after a few days sitting? Something's pulling power with the car off. I use a current clamp to isolate the exact circuit. Often a relay, module, or aftermarket accessory.
$100–$300When your car can't start, it can't get to a shop. That's the definition of when mobile service matters most. I come to you, I diagnose it properly, and I fix it — usually faster and cheaper than tow + shop combined.
The most common mistake is replacing the battery when the real problem is the alternator — or replacing the alternator when the battery is just toast. I test both before recommending either. A new battery with a failing alternator will be dead again within a week.
GM Passlock/PassKey security systems are a well-known headache. The car cranks, won't start, security light flashes — and shops want $400 to "reprogram" it when there's often a wiring fix or a proper bypass. Ford Focus owners had a batch of bad ignition cylinders that caused no-start issues — I know the history. Honda owners: that single loud click is almost always the starter motor itself, not the solenoid.
If your battery keeps dying and it's less than 3 years old, don't replace the battery first. The problem is almost always a parasitic drain or a failing alternator. Let me test it before you buy anything.
Call me right now. I'll tell you what to listen for and I'll come fix it. Available 24/7 across the GTA.