Coolant seeping below the front of your LX570's engine, a green stain creeping down the block, temps running a touch warm?

Lexus LX570 Water Pump Replacement (3UR-FE)
at your home.

🚗 2008–2021 Lexus / Toyota 3UR-FE 5.7 V8 📋 LX570, Land Cruiser 200 🔴 Full-day job — done right at your home

The 5.7's factory water pump commonly starts leaking from its weep hole between 60 and 100 thousand kilometres — and it sits deep in the front of the engine, which is why quotes shock people. We replace it with an OEM pump at your home.

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What's actually failing.

Inside every water pump is a spinning shaft sealed against pressurized coolant by a mechanical seal — and on the 3UR-FE 5.7 in the LX570 and Land Cruiser 200, that seal is the known weak point. The factory pump commonly starts to give up between 60,000 and 100,000 kilometres: the seal wears, coolant begins escaping past it, and the pump's weep hole — a built-in tattletale designed for exactly this — starts dripping. The first evidence is usually a dried green or pink crust below the pump snout and a stain tracking down the front of the block.

A weeping pump is a pump announcing its retirement. The same worn seal lets coolant reach the shaft bearing, and once the bearing starts to go, the failure accelerates: the weep becomes a drip, the drip becomes a stream, and a bearing that lets go entirely can wobble the pulley and take the drive belt with it. On a three-tonne truck, losing coolant circulation shows up first as temperatures creeping on hills and hot days — and a 5.7 doesn't tolerate being run hot.

The pump sits deep at the front of the engine behind the fan, shroud and drive belt, which is why the labour — not the part — dominates every quote for this job. It's also why, if the cam towers or timing cover are due for resealing on your truck, asking about bundling is smart: the front-of-engine teardown overlaps.

The symptoms.

If your Lexus / Toyota is doing any of these, this is the likely cause:

  • Coolant drips or wet seep below the front-centre of the engine
  • Dried green or pink crust around the pump snout and on the block
  • Coolant level dropping between top-ups
  • Sweet antifreeze smell after a drive
  • Temperature gauge running slightly above normal, especially towing or on hot days
  • Faint bearing whine or growl from the front of the engine

What this job typically costs.

$1,400–$1,800
what dealers typically quote for this repair
Our approach is different: one flat quote for the complete job, given before any work starts — parts, labour, everything. No hourly meter, no surprise add-ons. And if a smaller fix solves it, that's what we'll tell you.

The complete fix includes.

  • New OEM water pump — not a bargain rebuild
  • New thermostat while the cooling system is open
  • Drive belt inspection, replaced if coolant-contaminated or cracked
  • Full coolant flush with a proper fill and bleed
  • Cooling system pressure test to confirm the fix and rule out other leaks
  • Check of the radiator, hoses and fan clutch while the front end is apart
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How this works at your home.

About half a day in your driveway. The fan, shroud and drive belt come off to reach the pump — it sits deep, which is where the labour goes — then the system gets refilled, bled and pressure-tested before the truck moves. No hoist needed; level parking and access to the front of the truck covers it. If the truck also has the 5.7's known cam tower or timing cover seepage, mention it when you book — the teardowns overlap and bundling saves real money.

Why not to wait.

Water pump failures are progressive and one-directional: the weep hole dripping today is the seal's formal notice. From there the bearing degrades, the leak rate climbs, and the end state is a pump that dumps coolant or seizes the belt — typically on the hottest day of the year, under load. An overheated 5.7 risks head gaskets and warped components that turn a half-day pump job into an engine-level repair. Replacing a weeping pump on your schedule beats replacing a failed one on the road's schedule, every time.

Frequently asked questions.

Can the water pump really be changed in my driveway?

Yes — it's front-of-engine work, done from above after the fan and shroud come off. The job needs patience and a proper fill-and-bleed at the end, not a shop bay. Half a day at your home and the truck is back in service the same day.

Why is a water pump so expensive on this truck?

Because of where it lives: deep at the front of the engine behind the fan assembly, shroud and belt, so the labour hours dwarf the part. Dealers bill those hours at dealership rates on a flagship vehicle. We quote one flat price for the complete job — pump, thermostat, coolant, pressure test — before any work starts.

It's only a small weep — can I just top up the coolant and watch it?

For a short while, with vigilance — but understand what the weep is: coolant escaping past a worn shaft seal that also protects the pump bearing. It never improves, and the failure curve steepens near the end. On a truck this heavy, where overheating risks the engine itself, we'd book it sooner rather than later and skip the roadside version of this repair.

Should anything else be done at the same time?

The thermostat — always, since the system is open and the part is cheap. The drive belt if it's coolant-soaked or aged. And if your 5.7 has the era's known cam tower or timing cover seepage, this teardown overlaps that one substantially, so bundling is worth a conversation before we book the visit.

Already holding a dealer or shop quote for this?

Send it over for a free second opinion. I'll tell you straight what the job actually involves — and if their quote is fair, I'll tell you that too.

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Is your Lexus / Toyota doing this right now?

Describe it to the AI mechanic (bottom right), or get a flat quote for the complete job. We come to you, anywhere in the GTA.

Call/Text 647-450-0406 Get a Flat Quote