Full set replaced at your location with the correct plug type per manufacturer spec. Coil-on-plug inspection included. No cheap generic plugs.
Spark plugs are one of the most overlooked maintenance items on a vehicle. Most people know they need oil changes, but a lot of people don't know their plugs haven't been changed in 90,000 km — and then they wonder why the car idles rough, uses more fuel, or occasionally hesitates under acceleration.
Most modern cars with iridium plugs should have them replaced every 60,000–100,000 km. Older vehicles with copper plugs need them sooner. I carry the correct plug specification for your vehicle — not whatever's on sale at the parts store.
For V6 and V8 engines with a rear cylinder bank that's hard to access, the labour is higher because of the disassembly required. I'll quote you honestly before starting.
I use the manufacturer-specified plug — copper, iridium, or platinum — and the correct heat range for your engine. Generic plugs from the parts store often don't match the spec properly, leading to premature wear or rough running.
Spec-correct onlyOvertightened plugs crack the porcelain or seize in aluminum heads. Under-torqued plugs can back out. I torque to spec, not "hand tight and give it a turn."
No shortcutsWhile the plugs are out, I inspect the COP boots and coils. Cracked boots and failing coils cause misfires that new plugs won't fix. If I find a problem, I'll tell you before closing it up.
IncludedOn aluminum cylinder heads, anti-seize compound on the plug threads prevents future seizure. Without it, the next plug change can mean a broken plug or damaged head threads.
Standard practiceOn transversely-mounted V6 and V8 engines (most FWD/AWD vehicles), the rear cylinder bank is buried against the firewall. Getting to those plugs requires removing the intake manifold on some vehicles, or at minimum significant disassembly. Shops sometimes skip the rear plugs because it's more work — then 20,000 km later you're misfiring on a rear cylinder. I do the full set, all cylinders, every time.
A 4-cylinder Honda Civic with iridium plugs: 4 plugs, accessible engine bay, straightforward job. A V6 Chrysler Pacifica with the rear bank against the firewall: intake manifold removal required. The labour is genuinely different, and the pricing reflects that honestly.
If a shop quotes you the same flat price regardless of vehicle, ask them if they're actually doing the rear bank. The answer might surprise you.
Rough idle, misfires during acceleration, worse fuel economy, hard starts in cold weather, or a check engine light with a misfire code (P0300–P0308). If your car has 80,000+ km and you don't know when plugs were last changed, they're probably due.
Copper plugs last about 30,000 km and are spec'd for older vehicles. Iridium and platinum plugs last 60,000–100,000+ km and are required for most modern engines. I use the plug type your manufacturer specifies, not whatever's cheapest in the catalog.
Yes. I inspect the coil-on-plug boots and coils while the plugs are out. Cracked boots and failing coils cause misfires that new plugs won't fix. If I find one that's failing, I'll show you and quote the replacement.
If it's a misfire code and worn plugs are the cause, yes. If the misfire persists on a specific cylinder after new plugs, the coil or injector may be the issue. I'll diagnose before assuming plugs are the answer.
I'll come to your driveway and do a full plug replacement with the correct spec plugs for your vehicle.